Beautiful Brunello the Exception?

I love the wines of Soldera.  For me they are exceptional*.  While most Brunello is dense and tannic and brooding, the wines of Soldera are beautiful and pretty.  But they are also dense and tannic and brooding.

* Exceptional is perhaps an overused word.  And arguably somewhat misused.  What does the word mean?  Some people seem to use the word to mean something like “really good”, whereas I’d suggest it should be reserved for those times when something is “unusual or atypical”.  It perhaps has its strongest meaning when it is both unusual and really good.  And that’s what I mean when I describe the wines of Soldera as exceptional.

Soldera make Brunello di Montalcino, which is 100% sangiovese from the Montalcino region of Tuscany.  The wines from this region are considered by many to be among the finest red wines in Italy, and are in general far more structured, dense, and tannic than the sangioveses from Chianti and elsewhere.  They are often “impressive” wines.  But how often are they also pretty, and floral, and captivating, and complex even in their youth?  Not very often in my experiences.

Are there other Brunello producers making good wines?  Yes, of course.  But none seems to be close to Soldera both in style of winemaking and execution; Soldera retains the inherent structure of the grape and region but coaxes out of the fruit the most compelling aromas and flavours (eg florals, red fruits, tea leaves, spices, and more).  While many Brunellos are impressive, Soldera wines are beautiful.

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